I have it covered.

The main carcass has been covered. I have used 'N' Gauge Random Stone thin card sheets as supplied by Metcalfe -Cat No. PN115. These packs have five sheets of each thick and thin card which have cut and random stone on each sheet. The grey is a little light but I think a wash of a darker colour will make the building tone in with the Station Building.. The interior is a hotch potch of scrap building sheets which make it look a little more authentic. I also cut a sheet to cover the inner wall that abuts the platform to be fitted after the glazing was stuck in place.

Goods Shed.

First testing of the positioning of Teignfords Goods Shed.
The building will butt up against the platform. As can be seen, the removal of the second siding ,to the left of the shed would have made the area too cramped.
This does affect the operational capabilities somewhat but the yard area would have been too tight and the possibilities of lorries backing up to the loading bay all but impossible.
Now I am sure that the size and position are correct I can get on and detail the carcass.

Goods Shed Roof.

 This is the basis for the Goods Shed roof.
Two pieces of mounting card cut to size and glued to gether with a couple of braces to the same profile as the apex of the end walls.
Some card has also been cut for the woodwork under the eaves which will carry the guttering.
I am a great believer in keeping it simple rather than super detailing bits that no one will see, rigidity and longevity are more important. This philosophy has sttod the test of time with the buildings on Hennock and I don't see any reason to change now.

Teignford Goods Shed.

 Well, the knives have been out!
The main pieces of the goods shed have been cut out and glued together.
Using Ross all purpose white glue, which it says on the container- Bonds Fast Dries Clear. This I picked up from our local Discount Store a few years ago and it does exactly that. The glue grabs fairly quickly so you don't have to spend half the evening holding two pieces of cardboard together.
I got to the stage seen in a couple of hours and the next morning all had hardened squarely and the mitred corners appear to be neat.

The centre image shows that a side and end were stuck together and left to set and then the two halves joined.
Corner braces were added to aid it all being square and to add a bit of strength. It now comes to the decision on what to clad it in.
Must get into the store cupboard to see what I have in stock.

Ballasted track.

Well, this bit of track has dried and I am happy with the outcome. Trust me, the other side of the track is weathered.
Now the track must be thoroughly cleaned and any rougue pieces of ballast removed- usually they lurk between check rails and abve rail chairs.
So, out with the track rubber and fiberglass brush to make sure that running is smooth.
I have not had a stuck point this time because I set each one at mid-throw so there was no blade contact.
Just one more board to do and running checked before scenery!

Securing rail at Baseboard edge.

 One thing I have omitted to do is describe the method I use when crossing baseboard joints.
I have found it particularly difficult to get decent photos of the track, the camera always wants to focus on something else!
However, I hope these pics will give you an idea on how I did it.
Firstly, with the boards all joined up, the track laid where it should go. the points where the rails crossed the joints were marked and the track removed. Small brass (MUST be brass) screws were inserted into pre-drilled holes. the depth of the insertions are determined by the track just sliding over the top of the screws. The screws were tinned and the track
base removed at this area. The trackwork was
refitted and heat applied to bond the screws and track together.
When sure that the lot has been bonded, the track is
 cut through with a razor saw, cleaned up and hopefully this will keep the ends of the trackwork in line for a very long time.
 Now each time the boards are joined the track will align if this method, together with the board aligners have been used.

Wagon Loads.

This is one of the wagons that were weathered by Tom Rayer at Westfest. It is a PP28 drop side 5 plank wagon to a BR Design. PIPE wagon to you or me- it says so on the side!
The wagon load is one of the cast offerings for 4mm. However, if you cut it to length to fit then it looks OK to me for 3mil.
I am considering weathering all the stock on Teignford which will mean a separate stock so maybe the lot gets the treatment.