Ballast Takes Longer to Dry-Shock! Horror!

If watching paint dry is your thing the watching Ballast Dry must come a close second!
Previous efforts in my modelling room (the loft) have presented no problems.
However, this cold snap has meant that the glue is taking longer to set- so solution is to leave the loft hatch open during the day to allow more warm air in. And it seems to work as the first board is now dry and the second nearly so.
Next time the lot goes on the dining table and we have TV dinners!

Ballasting

 The tools needed for this part of the process are quite simple.
A screw top jar to mix the adhesive, in this case PVA mixed 50/50 with water plus a couple of drops of washing up liquid, plus an eyedropper to surgically apply the mixture.
With the water misted on from a plant spray, the mixture is added. Having the washing up liquid added breaks down the surface tension, so as you apply the mix, it spreads out through the ballast hopefully leaving no high or bald spots.

P.S. Valentines Day today- DON'T FORGET!

Ballasting begins.

The tedious part now begins. I haven't found a quick way of ballasting so pour some on, spread it out and hopefully get it somewhere looking realistic.
Using a Granite ballast this time as I couldn't get the Magnesium type that I used on Hennock.
The lower shot see's the ballast spread out and the shoulder formed.
Next time will see the adhesive applied.

Ballasting.

 My least favourite part of the layout building processis ballasting.
After a lot of time spent getting the layout running, then it is covered with glue and grit and afterwards still ,hopefully, works!
These are the ingredients. Ballast- in this case 'N' Gauge granite, Mist spray bottle, Eye Dropper, soft brush and glue.
The spray bottle has a couple of drops of Washing up liquid added- breaks surface tension and helps the glue flow around the ballast without it lumping.

The eye dropper is for applying the glue, the brush is to spread the ballast between the sleepers and to create a shoulder at the track edge.
The glue I use is a PVA, sold cheaply in Poundland for mmm- a Pound! This is watered down with about 50% water and a couple of drops of washing up liquid to ease the surface tension- not too much or the whole lot disappears under a sea of bubbles.

Control Panel.

Nigel has kindly completed the wiring and the control apnel which is now fixed securely to the side of the second board.
The sidings can be operated independantly from the Main Line making more operational interest and prevent us from falling asleep!
All that needs doing is to tidy the wires with some cable ties and thats completed.

Trackwork weathering.

 I was not particularly happy with the way the track colour turned out. So, as described in the last post, some more appropriate colour was purchased.
This has now been applied to the whole of the visible track and I think the result is a lot more acceptable.
The buffer stops have also been given the treatment. Once ballasted, more weathering can be applied and the lamp and buffer strip can be appropriately coloured.
Well, time to let it all dry and then ballasting can begin.

Painting the Rails.

Not particularly happy with the paint I had used to colour the railas, I looked for somethins a little better.
One thing about a good Model Railway Exhibition is that there is a chance to compare products.
Recently at Southampton Model Railway Societys show I looked at several products for my purpose.
The one I decided on was this.
Phoenix Precision Rusty Rails. From the sample lid colour it looks about the colour I hope to achieve.
Must crack on and try this.